Trying (and failing) to be Porteñas

Saturday night we attempted to have a night on the town, Porteño-style. It was somewhat of a colossal failure. First of all, it is important to understand the night-life schedule in BA. People go to bars around 12 am or 1 and drink with their friends before heading out to the dance clubs. These clubs open around 3, but we’ve been told no one really gets there before 4. They close around 7 or 8 or 9….

So, around 11:30 we went to a bar and were almost the only ones in there. A new friend, Katie, and a Swiss girl, who is also living with Katie’s host-family, came as well. We had a couple drinks and chatted, but by 2 a.m. we were all getting tired and willing ourselves to stay alert until we could head to the club.

The first club we went to turned out to be a gay club, but the bouncer kindly pointed us towards a different one. When we arrived there, the bouncer seemed reluctant to let us in, but did. He also didn’t charge us a cover, which we were expecting. Inside there were only about 15 other people, and they all seemed to know each other. No one was dancing. The five of us stood awkwardly in a corner, garnering many stares, and waited to see if more people showed up. They did, but they all seemed to know each other as well. Turns out it was a private party. And we’re pretty sure they were high-schoolers. By this point we were all so embarrassed and uncomfortable that we just laughing. We decided to call a cab and flee around 3:30 and were all home by 4. So our first attempt at going out in Buenos Aires was pretty unsuccessful. Serves us right for being too proud to go to bars that cater to foreigners before we know the city, the customs, or the language.

With Emily and Kristen at the bar

Speaking of the language, I have never felt this incompetent in a Spanish-speaking country. My language is actually better then it was when I first arrived in either Costa Rica or Peru, but the accent here is very difficult to understand. What’s more, many Porteños speak English, so the second they think you didn’t understand something, they switch to English or get someone who speaks English or bring you an English menu. I’m getting a little resentful of this. I know they’re trying to help, but I won’t learn that way. Also, I know my Spanish is actually pretty good, but now my confidence is completely shot! I just keep reminding myself I’ve only been here for five days…

It rained yesterday and last night, so today (Saturday) was only 70˚, which was a welcomed relief. Kristen, Emily, and I took the opportunity to do some more exploring. We spent a couple hours at a huge artisan market in Recoleta, the neighborhood next to Palermo. I bought a simple silver chain bracelet with a small pink rhodocrosite, Argentina’s national stone...


After the market Katie joined us and we walked to the Casa Rosada, the president’s mansion, and the Plaza de Mayo, the site of many major protests in Argentina. It was a very long walk, so along the way I took pictures of the city, as people have been asking for them. The sun didn’t really come out, so the photos aren’t beautiful, but they do capture the feeling and look of the neighborhoods…

My street in Palermo


Palermo


Palermo

Recoleta

Av. 9 de Julio

Av. 9 de Julio

Av. 9 de Julio

The area around the Plaza de Mayo has wide streets lined with marble buildings with columns, and looks very much like DC…

Kristen, Katie, and Emily in front of the Casa Rosada

I dare you to guess whether this is DC or BA

Our plan tonight (also Saturday) was to see a movie, and this was Failed Attempt at Being Porteñas #2. We went to the theatre near our apartments, bought tickets for an 8:20 movie, and went to get coffee as we had an hour to kill. Upon returning, we gave our tickets to the man working the door, who informed us, laughing, that the movie was at 10:20. Damn 24-hour clock. He was still laughing when we showed up at the correct time. After the movie (Vicky Cristina Barcelona--it was really good!) we shared a pizza and a bottle of wine and pretty much decided that we should just stay in our apartments to avoid further embarrassment.

I suppose there's always next weekend....